Morocco - Day 6 to 13

Morocco: Where Ancient Heritage Meets Vibrant Culture
Perched at the crossroads of Africa, Europe, and the Middle East, Morocco is a land of dramatic contrasts, where timeless traditions intertwine with bustling modernity. From the labyrinthine medinas of Marrakech and Fes to the sweeping dunes of the Sahara and the rugged peaks of the Atlas Mountains, this North African gem dazzles with its diverse landscapes and rich history.

Immerse yourself in the sensory overload of Jemaa el-Fnaa square, where snake charmers, spice vendors, and storytellers converge under the glow of lanterns. Marvel at the intricate mosaics of Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca or the ancient mud-brick kasbahs like Ait Benhaddou, a backdrop for epic films. Yet Morocco is far from frozen in time—its cities pulse with contemporary energy, from hip art galleries in Tangier to rooftop bars in Rabat and the bohemian vibes of Chefchaouen’s blue-washed streets.

Mid-May is ideal for exploration, with warm days and mild evenings. Time your visit to catch the Rose Festival in the Dades Valley (late May), where the village of El Kelaa des M’Gouna celebrates the harvest with music, parades, and markets brimming with rose-infused products.

Savor tagines slow-cooked over coals, sip mint tea in shaded courtyards, and lose yourself in souks overflowing with handwoven textiles and gleaming lanterns. Whether riding a motorcycle through the Atlas’ serpentine passes, camping under Saharan stars, or wandering centuries-old alleys, Morocco’s magic lies in its ability to surprise at every turn.

Morocco (ⵍⵎⵖⵔⵉⴱ / المغرب) – Languages: Arabic, Berber (Tamazight), French widely spoken.
Average May Temperatures: Marrakech 18°C–30°C (64°F–86°F); Sahara Desert 35°C days, cooler nights.

Day 6: May 23 – Tarifa (Spain) to Chefchaouen (Morocco)
Route: Tarifa – Ferry (1 hour) – Tangier Med – Rif Mountains – Chefchaouen
Distance/Time: ~120 km in Morocco (plus ~1 hour ferry; total ~4–5 hours including border)

Africa awaits! Start early in Tarifa to catch a morning ferry. The Tarifa–Tangier ferry is a quick 1-hour ride across the Strait of Gibraltar (Changos route 2025.pdf) (Changos route 2025.pdf). Bikes are loaded easily, and you can enjoy views of the Pillars of Hercules framing the strait. Upon arrival at Tangier Med port, you’ll handle Moroccan customs and immigration. Expect it to take some time (sometimes 30–60 minutes or more) – be patient with the paperwork and passport stamping (Changos route 2025.pdf). Once cleared, you ride into Morocco proper! The change is immediate: different language on signs, bustling traffic, and new landscapes.

From Tangier Med, choose the scenic mountain road (N2 then P4703) into the Rif Mountains. The ride to Chefchaouen is relatively short, so you can savor it. The road winds through green hills and cedar forests, with gentle curves – a nice introduction to Moroccan roads (Changos route 2025.pdf) (Changos route 2025.pdf). As you ascend into the Rif, you’ll notice rural life along the route: farmers with donkeys, kids waving from villages, perhaps women carrying bundles of sticks. The pace is relaxed. By early afternoon, you arrive in Chefchaouen, the “Blue Pearl” of Morocco. This small mountain town is famous for its blue-painted medina – walls, stairs, doors all washed in vivid shades of blue (Chefchaouen - Wikipedia). It’s a striking and tranquil place, offering a complete change of pace after the ride. Park your bike near your riad (many accommodations here have secure parking lots just outside the old town) and spend the rest of the day on foot. Wander the steep, winding lanes of the medina, photograph the endless blue alleys, and perhaps hike to the Spanish Mosque overlook for sunset views of the town. This lighter day is perfect for resting and adjusting to Morocco.

(A narrow alley with blue walls and steps photo – Free City Image on Unsplash) Chefchaouen’s medina is known for its serene blue lanes and courtyards – a beautiful welcome to Morocco, where almost every building is painted in shades of blue (Chefchaouen - Wikipedia).

• Highlights: The ferry crossing – in one hour you traverse two continents (keep an eye out for dolphins). Your first ride on African soil through the Rif’s green landscapes (Changos route 2025.pdf). Chefchaouen itself – a unique mountain town where even the flower pots are blue, offering a peaceful retreat after the border bustle.

• Border tips: Complete police and customs forms on the ferry if available. At Tangier Med, remain calm and friendly – officials will give you a temporary import form for your motorcycle. It took about 1.5 hours for some travelers to get through recently (Thinking of going to Morocco? Ferry Tickets, Customs & Stocking Up – followourmotorhome), so use the time to chat with fellow riders in line. Once done, you’re free to go – don’t lose the import paper; you’ll need it when exiting Morocco.

• Riding conditions: Good paved roads in this northern region, with some potholes possible. Curves are gentler than in Spain’s mountains. Watch for slower trucks or overloaded vans on the Rif mountain roads. Moroccan traffic can be unpredictable – expect the unexpected (animals or pedestrians on road). But this route is generally quiet.

• Suggested stops: There is a nice viewpoint lay-by as you climb into the Rif, giving a vista back toward the Mediterranean. No major towns on the direct route; consider packing snacks or having an early lunch on the ferry. Once in Chefchaouen, relax with a mint tea in the main plaza Outa el Hammam, soaking in the atmosphere.

• Stay: Chefchaouen – Stay in a traditional riad (guesthouse) in the medina for an authentic experience. Many have rooftop terraces overlooking the blue maze of the town. Enjoy a leisurely Moroccan dinner: try a tagine of local goat or chicken with olives and lemon, and the town’s famed goat cheese. Chefchaouen is relatively quiet at night; it’s an ideal spot to recharge.

GPX/Map: Route from Tangier Med to Chefchaouen via Tetouan (N2 then mountain road P4703) (Changos route 2025.pdf) (Changos route 2025.pdf). This avoids the busier coastal highway and treats you to more scenic Rif mountain riding. (Note: As of 2025, an alternative is the Tetouan – Akchour – Chefchaouen road for more twisties, but check local advice on road conditions.)

Day 7: May 24 – Chefchaouen to Fes (Imperial Cities and the Rif)
Route: Chefchaouen – Ouazzane – Middle Atlas foothills – Fes
Distance/Time: ~200 km, ~4.5 hours

After a refreshing night, point your bike southeast toward Fes. The morning light in Chefchaouen is gorgeous – as you depart, you may see locals washing textiles in the clear river at the town’s edge or merchants opening their blue-painted shops. The road towards Ouazzane undulates through the Rif’s lesser ranges. You’ll pass olive groves and wheat fields; this is a fertile agricultural area. The Rif mountains gradually give way to rolling plains. Traffic is light, apart from occasional farm vehicles.

Approaching Fes, you enter a region of villages and more urban bustle. Fes is one of Morocco’s four Imperial Cities and navigating into it can be lively – we recommend entering from the north and heading for your accommodation near the medina’s edge (perhaps in the Batha area or a riad that offers secure parking). Arrive by early afternoon to have time to explore Fes on foot, since riding in the ancient medina is not possible (it’s the world’s largest car-free urban zone (Fez, Morocco - Wikipedia)!). Step into Fes el-Bali, the old city, and you’re transported back centuries: narrow alleys, donkey carts, vibrant souks, and the aroma of spices and leather. Visit the famous Chouara tannery, where leather is still cured in colorful pits (you can view it from terraces – a real sensory experience). Marvel at the ornate Bab Boujloud (Blue Gate) and consider hiring a local guide to show you hidden madrassas and fondouks. Fes’s medina, a UNESCO site, is a maze of over 9,000 alleys (Fez: UNESCO World Heritage Series - Journey Beyond Travel), rich with history and culture.

• Highlights: A relaxed ride through rural northern Morocco – wave at farmers and kids as you pass. The first sight of Fes’ city walls and gates, knowing you’ve reached the millennium-old spiritual heart of Morocco (Fez, Morocco - Wikipedia) (Fez, Morocco - Wikipedia). Wandering Fes’s ancient medina in the afternoon, a living museum of medieval city life (the Medina of Fes is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the world’s largest and oldest pedestrian-only areas (Fez, Morocco - Wikipedia)).

• Riding conditions: Generally easy roads. Some sections near Ouazzane are twisty but nothing technical. As you near Fes, traffic increases – watch for taxis and scooters. The Moroccan driving rhythm might seem chaotic; stay assertive yet defensive. It’s a shorter ride today, giving you more time off the saddle.

• Suggested stops: Morning coffee in Ouazzane, a holy town known for its olive production. Try some fresh olives from a roadside stall. If you fancy a detour and time permits, you could swing by the Volubilis Roman ruins (near Meknes) before Fes – but that would significantly extend the day. Otherwise, head straight to Fes and enjoy more time there.

• Stay: Fes – overnight in a riad in or near the medina. Many riads provide dinner, which can be a delicious multicourse Moroccan feast (harira soup, pastilla – the famous sweet and savory pie – or a variety of tagines). Given Fes’s maze-like medina, consider using a porter or arranging with your riad for parking and luggage transport. An easier day’s ride means you can indulge in a hammam (traditional bath) in the evening to relax, or catch the sunset from a rooftop over the labyrinth of green-tiled roofs and minarets.

GPX/Map: Chefchaouen to Fes via P6/N13 (through Ouazzane and outskirts of Meknes). The N13 south of Ouazzane is a pleasant route bringing you directly toward Fes. Once in Fes, set your navigation to Bab Boujloud or your riad’s coordinates and be prepared for some urban navigation – or arrange for a guide to meet you at a gate.

Day 8: May 25 – Fes to Midelt (Middle Atlas Mountains)
Route: Fes – Ifrane – Azrou – Col du Zad (2,178 m) – Midelt
Distance/Time: ~200 km, ~4.5–5 hours

Depart Fes and climb into the Middle Atlas mountains. The environment changes quickly as you gain altitude on the road to Ifrane. Often called “Little Switzerland,” Ifrane surprises riders with its European alpine character – red-roofed chalets, lakes, even occasional snow in winter ( Ifrane, The Switzerland of Morocco | Amusing Planet ) ( Ifrane, The Switzerland of Morocco | Amusing Planet ). It’s a stark contrast to the desert scenes you’ll see later. Enjoy the crisp air as you ride through cedar forests around Azrou. Keep an eye out for the famous Barbary macaque monkeys that live here; they often sit by the roadside in the Cedar Forest near Azrou, hoping for fruit from visitors (Azrou Cedar Forest (2025) - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go ...). Stop at the Cedre Gouraud forest if you wish – there’s a centuries-old cedar tree and usually a troupe of wild monkeys you can observe (a fun break from riding).

Next, conquer the Col du Zad pass (~2,178 m). The climb is gradual and the road good. At the pass, you might notice shepherds tending flocks and perhaps patches of snow still lingering if spring has been cool. Descending from Zad, you enter broad high plains leading to Midelt. This town lies in a high valley between the Middle and High Atlas ranges, known for its apple orchards and as a waypoint for Saharan caravans of old. You’ll arrive by mid-afternoon, with the towering silhouette of the High Atlas to the south – a hint of tomorrow’s adventure. This shorter day gives you time to relax in Midelt. Perhaps explore the local market or visit a carpet cooperative (Midelt’s Berber rugs are well-regarded).

• Highlights: The cool cedar forests of the Middle Atlas – a welcome change from city heat, and possibly seeing wild Barbary apes up close (they are friendly but please don’t feed them, for their health). The neat parks and unusual architecture of Ifrane, a ski resort town that looks like it was plucked from the Alps ( Ifrane, The Switzerland of Morocco | Amusing Planet ). Sweeping vistas from Col du Zad – you can see layers of ridges behind you and the start of arid plateaus ahead.

• Riding conditions: Generally smooth roads with gentle curves. Some sections through cedar forest may have rough patches or wet spots (from springs). The altitude will be around 2000 m at the pass, so temperature drops – have a jacket ready. You might encounter slow-moving trucks on the pass; overtake when safe. Traffic is light.

• Suggested stops: Ifrane for a photo with the famous stone lion statue in town and a pastry at a café (the town’s French influence means good bakeries). Azrou for lunch – perhaps a tagine with prunes, a specialty of the region, or a simple kefta (meatball) brochette from a roadside grill. Pause at the monkey forest (Cèdre Gouraud) to stretch your legs and enjoy the playful macaques in their natural habitat.

• Stay: Midelt – a modest town but there are a few hotels that cater to travelers en route to the desert. Opt for a kasbah-style hotel on the outskirts, which may offer secure parking in a courtyard. Enjoy a dinner of Berber omelette or trout (from local streams) at your hotel. Midelt is at ~1,500 m altitude, so nights can be chilly – perfect for stargazing; the skies here are very clear.

GPX/Map: Follow N13 all the way from Fes to Midelt. It’s a direct route crossing the Middle Atlas, known for its pleasant scenery and stops (Ifrane, Azrou) along the way (Ifrane, The Switzerland of Morocco | Amusing Planet) ( Ifrane, The Switzerland of Morocco | Amusing Planet ). This is part of the classic “Route of Cedars” and a straightforward navigation day.

Day 9: May 26 – Midelt to Merzouga (Into the Sahara)
Route: Midelt – Tizi n’Talghomt Pass – Ziz Gorge – Errachidia – Erfoud – Merzouga
Distance/Time: ~270 km, ~5 hours

One of the most thrilling transitions of the trip: from alpine mountains to the Sahara Desert. Leaving Midelt, you ascend the last of the High Atlas foothills to Tizi n’Talghomt (1907 m). A sign proclaims it as the “Col du Legionnaire,” named after the French Foreign Legion engineers who built a famous tunnel here in 1928 (Ziz Gorges: A Comprehensive Travel Guide). Cruise through the short Tunnel du Légionnaire at the pass and suddenly you’re looking down on the vast Ziz Valley. The road then snakes through the stunning Gorges du Ziz, a steep canyon with red-rock walls carved by the Ziz River (Ziz Gorges: A Comprehensive Travel Guide) (Ziz Gorges: A Comprehensive Travel Guide). Stop at the viewpoint by the tunnel exit – from here, a ribbon of green palms is visible far below, signaling the oases to come (Ziz Gorges: A Comprehensive Travel Guide). Riding through the gorge is unforgettable: countless turns with towering cliffs on either side, as the road clings to the canyon wall (Ziz Gorges: A Comprehensive Travel Guide).

As you emerge from the gorge near Errachidia, the landscape opens into a broad desert valley. Date palm oases line the Ziz River’s path, forming a lush contrast against the arid backdrop. You’ll pass the blue Barrage Hassan Addakhil reservoir (a good spot for a photo of water in the desert). Continue through the Ziz Valley, dotted with ksars (mud-brick fortified villages) amidst a sea of date palms. There are roadside viewpoints where you can stop to admire this oasis – one of the largest in Morocco. The heat will likely pick up as you descend; stay hydrated.

Reach Erfoud, a town known for fossils and as the gateway to the dunes. Perhaps fuel up here and maybe grab a quick bite (Erfoud has famous dates – try some fresh ones). The final stretch: ride 60 km further to Merzouga. The paved road ends on the edge of the Erg Chebbi dunes – towering orange sand mountains up to 150 m high (Erg Chebbi - Wikipedia). Congratulations, you’ve made it to the Sahara! By mid-afternoon, the dunes shimmer in the sun. Your lodging might be a desert auberge or a camp; many offer secure parking and then a short 4x4 transfer if staying in a dune camp. Spend the late afternoon experiencing the magic of the dunes: perhaps take a camel ride to watch the sunset from atop a dune, or ride your bike gently onto the firm sand at the edge for a celebratory photo. As night falls, the sky explodes with stars – the Milky Way over Merzouga’s dunes is a sight you’ll never forget.

(The sun is setting over the sand dunes photo – Free Sunset Image on Unsplash) Sunset over the Erg Chebbi dunes in Merzouga – arriving at the Sahara rewards you with serene desert panoramas as the sun dips below the towering sand hills (Erg Chebbi - Wikipedia).

• Highlights: The dramatic ride through Ziz Gorge – with its sequence of hairpins and the famous Tunnel de Légionnaire (Ziz Gorges: A Comprehensive Travel Guide), it’s a geological wonder and riding gem. The first palm trees of the Ziz Oasis appearing as you exit the gorge, then miles of riding alongside date palms and ancient kasbahs. And of course, Erg Chebbi dunes at Merzouga – climbing a dune at sunset or sunrise, feeling the fine sand, is a bucket-list experience.

• Riding conditions: Mountain twisties in morning (good tarmac, just watch for occasional rockfall debris in gorge). Flat, straight roads in afternoon through desert plains – can be hot and occasionally windy with sand gusts. Carry extra water for you and the bike (radiator/cooling). In Merzouga, the last meters to some desert hotels may be sandy tracks – if uncomfortable, arrange for hotel staff to guide you or pick you up. There’s guarded parking in Merzouga village if needed.

• Suggested stops: Scenic overlook at the Legionnaire Tunnel exit (Ziz Gorges: A Comprehensive Travel Guide) (there’s a parking area to safely pull off). A roadside kiosk in the Ziz Valley selling fresh orange juice under the palm shade – refreshing and supports locals. In Erfoud, if time, visit a fossil workshop to see Devonian era fossils (marble tables inlaid with Orthoceras fossils are common here). As you near Merzouga, you’ll see the dunes on the horizon – a great photo op is when they first appear in view.

• Stay: Merzouga – Options include auberges right at the dune line or tented desert camps a few kilometers into the sands. Many riders choose to stay one night in a desert camp (reachable by camel or 4x4 provided by the host) to fully experience the quiet and stars. Your gear can be left at the auberge. Dinner is usually a hearty Berber tagine under the stars, followed by drums around a campfire. The hospitality here is wonderful; expect to be treated to Berber tea and songs. You’ve earned a rest day, and tomorrow’s ride is shorter, so enjoy the desert night.

GPX/Map: Follow N13 from Midelt through Errachidia to Erfoud (Ziz Gorges: A Comprehensive Travel Guide) (Ziz Gorges: A Comprehensive Travel Guide). Then R702 to Merzouga. This is the standard and most paved route to Erg Chebbi. Ensure you have fuel from Erfoud (Merzouga has small fuel sellers but not always a full station).

Day 10: May 27 – Merzouga to Dades Gorge (Oases and Canyons)
Route: Merzouga – Rissani – Tinghir – Todra Gorge (optional side trip) – Boumalne Dades – Dades Gorge (to Msemrir)
Distance/Time: ~300 km (including gorge in-and-out), ~5–6 hours

After a spectacular night in the dunes, start westward. Pass through Rissani, the former capital of the Tafilalt where the ruins of Sijilmassa (an old caravan trade city) lie nearby. The town has a lively market if you pass in the morning – famous for donkey parking lot and locally made Madfouna (Berber “pizza”). Continue on the N10 across the stone desert hamada. You’re now in the Almaj oases region: a string of green valleys fed by rivers from the Atlas. By late morning you reach Tinghir, gateway to Todra Gorge. If time and energy permit, turn right and ride up the Todra Gorge road (about 15 km one-way). Todra Gorge is a stunning chasm with 300 m sheer rock walls narrowing to just 10 m apart (Todra Gorges | Story - Hero Traveler) (Climbing in the Todra Gorge). The paved road runs right into the gorge where a clear river flows – you can park and walk the most narrow section. It’s a popular spot for rock climbers. The experience of riding into this towering canyon is well worth the detour. (If you skip Todra, you’ll have more time in Dades – either choice is great.)

Backtrack to the N10 and ride west to Boumalne Dades, where you turn north into the Dades Gorge. Welcome to Morocco’s most famous hairpins! The road twists dramatically as it climbs into the Dades Canyon, with layered red-rock formations all around. About 30 km in, you’ll reach the series of tight switchbacks that ascend to Msemrir – this photogenic section is often seen on postcards. Take your time and enjoy the ride; pause at the top viewpoint by a cafe to look back at the zig-zagging road you conquered. It’s an absolute thrill for any motorcyclist. Up in the gorge, unique rock formations like “Monkey Fingers” await. Depending on time, you can ride further up the gorge (paved road currently goes ~60 km from Boumalne). The canyon grows narrower and the scenery wilder the further you go. When ready, descend back down the same way (the views are totally different in reverse). Spend the night in the Dades Valley.

• Highlights: Morning ride through Saharan villages – watch for children waving and camels grazing. Todra Gorge – standing between its towering cliffs is humbling (its walls soar up to 400 m (Todgha Gorge - Wikipedia) (Climbing in the Todra Gorge)). The legendary Dades Gorge hairpins – an adrenaline-pumping climb that rewards with epic photos and bragging rights. The Dades Valley’s surreal landscapes of eroded red rock and castle-like kasbahs perched above green fields.

• Riding conditions: Mostly paved and in good condition. The road into Todra is paved until the narrowest section (where it ends in a pedestrian area). Dades Gorge road is paved through the famous bends and beyond; it can be narrow but fine for bikes. Watch for gravel or sand on corners, especially if wind has blown it in. In both gorges, be mindful of potential oncoming tour vans or buses that may take wide turns. Otherwise, light traffic.

• Suggested stops: Tinghir palm grove – consider a short stop to walk into the oasis gardens under the shade of date palms, see how locals farm with traditional methods. Todra Gorge café – have a mint tea by the river inside the gorge. In Boumalne Dades town, top up fuel (last good station before heading into Dades Gorge). On the climb in Dades, stop at the popular viewpoint halfway up the switchbacks (often there are a few vendors selling minerals or geodes – interesting to browse).

• Stay: Dades Valley – there are guesthouses both in the gorge and back near Boumalne. For atmosphere, a kasbah-style hotel with a terrace overlooking the valley is ideal. The altitude here is around 1,600 m, so nights are cooler. Enjoy a dinner of local fare – perhaps a chicken tagine with figs, a specialty of the region, or Berber couscous with mountain herbs. Under clear skies, you’ll see a blanket of stars (rural Morocco has very little light pollution). Fall asleep to the quiet rustling of the Dades River below – a stark contrast to the bustle of Fes two days ago.

GPX/Map: Merzouga to Boumalne via N10 (through Erfoud, Tinjdad, Tinghir). In Tinghir, turn north on R703 to ride into Todra Gorge (then return to Tinghir). At Boumalne, take R704 north into Dades Gorge (Gorges du Dades, where you will be driving just 12 inches from the side of the mountain) (Gorges du Dades, where you will be driving just 12 inches from the side of the mountain). Note: some mapping apps show a “through route” connecting Todra and Dades via the mountains, but that is an off-road track not advisable for big bikes with luggage. It’s better to do in-and-out for each gorge on paved roads.

Day 11: May 28 – Dades Gorge to Taliouine (Across the Atlas to the Sous Valley)
Route: Boumalne Dades – Kelaa M’Gouna – Ouarzazate – Tazenakht – Taliouine
Distance/Time: ~320 km, ~6 hours

Wave goodbye to the Dades Valley, perhaps with a morning ride among its “Monkey Finger” rock formations glowing in early sun. Heading west on N10, you traverse the Valley of Roses (Kelaa M’Gouna area) – if it’s April/May, the rose fields are blooming and you might catch the scent of Damascus roses used for making rosewater. Next up is Ouarzazate, a modern town known as the “Hollywood of Morocco.” Pause here to see the exterior of the Atlas Film Studios or the Taourirt Kasbah. Many famous movies were shot in Ouarzazate’s deserts and studios (from Lawrence of Arabia to Game of Thrones) (Tours and Tickets to Experience Atlas Film Studios - Viator). It’s a convenient lunch stop – maybe at a cafe frequented by film crews.

Continuing, leave the main tourist trail and head southwest on the quieter P31 road. You cross vast, empty plateaus with the Anti-Atlas mountains on the horizon. Traffic thins out almost completely. Stop in Tazenakht, a small town famed for Berber carpets and saffron trade. From here, climb into the Anti-Atlas range. The road winds but not as sharply as the High Atlas – it’s a sweeping ride through arid hills and argan tree groves. Arrive in Taliouine, the heart of Morocco’s saffron region (bright purple crocus fields bloom in autumn) (Taliouine - Visiting Jewish Morocco) (Moroccan Saffron: Harvesting the Red Gold of Taliouine). Taliouine is a tranquil Berber town overlooked by a crumbling kasbah. You can visit the little Saffron Museum to learn about the costly spice harvested here (some shops may offer a tasting – saffron tea or spice mixtures). This is a midway point before tomorrow’s high pass.

• Highlights: Riding through Ouarzazate, with its desert film sets and the impressive Taourirt Kasbah where movies are made – you literally cross through Morocco’s movie capital (Tours and Tickets to Experience Atlas Film Studios - Viator). The feeling of solitude on the road from Ouarzazate to Tazenakht – expansive desert landscapes where you might not see another vehicle for miles. Taliouine’s saffron culture – known as the saffron capital of Morocco, it produces some of the world’s finest saffron (Taliouine - Visiting Jewish Morocco) (if in season, you’ll see farmers picking the delicate purple flowers at dawn).

• Riding conditions: Mostly good roads with some long straight stretches. Watch for occasional sand drifts on the road when crossing open desert plains (slow down if you see sand ahead). The Anti-Atlas section has some tight bends but is well-paved. Overall, a faster-paced day relative to the gorges.

• Suggested stops: Atlas Studios in Ouarzazate (you can park and take a quick photo with some movie props visible at the gate, or do a short tour if timing allows). Just outside Ouarzazate, you could detour 10 km to Ait Benhaddou (UNESCO kasbah village) if you skipped it on Day 11 – but that’s north and a bit out of the way for this route. Instead, perhaps focus on making progress and enjoy a late afternoon stop at the Taliouine Cooperative – they often give demonstrations of saffron sorting and have saffron products to sample.

• Stay: Taliouine – accommodation is simpler here, often small guesthouses. One option is to stay at an auberge on a farm just outside town, where they grow saffron and you can dine on a flavorful saffron-infused tagine. The surrounding countryside is peaceful. Enjoy the views of starry skies and distant silhouettes of the Anti-Atlas. You’re well off the beaten tourist path, experiencing authentic rural Morocco.

GPX/Map: Follow N10 from Dades to Ouarzazate (Changos route 2025.pdf) (Changos route 2025.pdf). Then P31 from Ouarzazate through Tazenakht to Taliouine. This route avoids the busy Marrakech highway and instead cuts through quiet scenic areas. Fuel up in Ouarzazate or Tazenakht, as services in between are sparse.

Day 12: May 29 – Taliouine to Marrakech (High Atlas Crossing via Tizi n’Test)
Route: Taliouine – Agoundis Valley – Tizi n’Test Pass (2,100 m) – Asni – Marrakech
Distance/Time: ~300 km, ~7 hours (with mountain stops)

An exhilarating mountain day. From Taliouine, ride west briefly, then turn north onto the famous Tizi n’Test Pass road (R203). This historic route, completed in 1929, is a narrow, twisty road that cuts straight over the High Atlas from south to north (Tiz n Test Mountain Pass - Naturally Morocco). The climb is gradual at first, passing through argan and almond groves. You’ll see terraced fields and the occasional Berber village clinging to hillsides. Stop at Tinmal about 3, which is home to a 12th-century mosque that is partially restored and can be visited by non-Muslims (Tizi-n-Test: Both Sides of the Atlas Mountains - Journey Beyond Travel) – a rare opportunity in Morocco. The massive Tinmal Mosque, set in a remote valley, is the birthplace of the Almohad dynasty and is steeped in history.

As you continue, the road snakes up to the Tizi n’Test Pass (approx 2,100 m) – one of Morocco’s highest road passes (Tiz n Test Mountain Pass - Naturally Morocco). The air cools and views expand. At the summit, there’s a café where you can pause and gaze back south at the distant Anti-Atlas, and north towards the plains of Marrakech. The descent is dramatic: countless bends with sheer drops (no guardrails in places). Go slow and beep on blind hairpins. You’ll likely meet trucks or buses edging along – yield where necessary; there are frequent pull-outs. Marvel at the engineering of this road, once considered an incredible feat connecting Marrakech to Taroudant (Tiz n Test Mountain Pass - Naturally Morocco). Partway down, you’ll spot the verdant Ourika Valley off to the east and perhaps snow on the highest peaks to the northeast (like Mount Toubkal, 4,167 m).

Reach Asni in the foothills, then it’s a straight shot into Marrakech on a busy highway. By late afternoon, you roll into the vibrant chaos of Marrakech. Congratulate yourself – you just crossed the entire Atlas range! Marrakech’s energy is infectious: donkey carts, motorbikes, luxury cars all mixing on the avenues. Head to your riad or hotel (ideally with parking or a guardian). In the evening, immerse yourself in the famed Jemaa el-Fnaa square – with its snake charmers, storytellers, and food stalls, it’s a UNESCO-recognized cultural space (Individual case study - intangible heritage - Culture Sector - UNESCO) (Djemaa El Fna | Marrakesh, Morocco | Attractions - Lonely Planet). This is a long day, but ending in Marrakech is rewarding.

• Highlights: The Tizi n’Test Pass itself – a challenging and beautiful mountain road, reaching 2,093 m at its peak (Tiz n Test Mountain Pass - Naturally Morocco), with views that will fill your camera’s memory card. Visiting Tinmal Mosque, a piece of 800-year-old history in a serene setting (Tizi-n-Test: Both Sides of the Atlas Mountains - Journey Beyond Travel) – walking through its arches is like stepping back in time. Arriving in Marrakech, the Red City, and experiencing the night carnival of Jemaa el-Fnaa (intangible heritage of humanity (Individual case study - intangible heritage - Culture Sector - UNESCO)) – a perfect contrast to the solitude of the mountains.

• Riding conditions: The R203 Tizi n’Test road is narrow, winding, and demands focus, but the surface is mostly good. Uphill traffic has priority on single-track sections, but use pull-outs to allow oncoming vehicles when needed. In wet weather, it can be slippery – but likely dry in May/June. The descent has some hair-raising drop-offs with no barriers; keep your eyes on the road and trust your skills. Once on the plains, the final 40 km to Marrakech is busy – typical city approach with more aggressive traffic. Marrakech itself requires defensive riding; consider arriving with enough daylight to navigate safely.

• Suggested stops: Tinmal Mosque (closed Tuesdays) – modest entry fee to walk inside; it’s quiet and often you’ll have it nearly to yourself. Tea at the Pass Summit Café, chatting with the owner who has plenty of stories of this road. There’s a viewpoint called Moulay Brahim on the way down where you can see the road carved along the mountain – worth a pause (and maybe some dried fruit snack from a vendor). Upon reaching Marrakech, reward yourself with a fresh-squeezed orange juice at a Jemaa el-Fnaa stall – iconic and safe to drink.

• Stay: Marrakech – Choose a riad in the medina or a hotel with secured parking. Many riads arrange for someone to meet you at a nearby parking lot. Unwind with a nice dinner; perhaps try the variety of street food at Jemaa el-Fnaa (grilled meats, harira soup, snail broth for the adventurous) or dine at a restaurant overlooking the square. The comfort of a real bed in a luxurious riad and maybe a hammam spa treatment will be heavenly after many days on the road. You’ve traversed Spain, Morocco’s mountains and desert – time to pamper yourself a bit in this magical city.

GPX/Map: Taliouine to Marrakech via R203 (Tizi n’Test) (Gorges du Dades, where you will be driving just 12 inches from the side of the mountain). There are no tricky turns – it’s one road through to Asni. From Asni, take R205 towards Marrakech. Caution: GPS might suggest alternate shorter routes; stick to R203 for the intended scenic pass. Ensure fuel at Taliouine or early on (there’s fuel in Ijoukak about halfway, but it’s a small station). This is a remote route, so come prepared.

Day 13: May 30 – Marrakech to Tangier (Atlantic Autobahn)
Route: Marrakech – (Autoroute A3) – Rabat – Tangier
Distance/Time: ~560 km, 8–9 hours (mostly highway)

After many days of mountain twisties, today is about covering distance to return to the north. It’s a full haul from Marrakech to Tangier, so start early. You’ll take the modern Moroccan toll highway for efficiency. The first leg (A7/A3) blasts from Marrakech to Casablanca and Rabat. The scenery is rolling plains, cork forests, and occasional glimpses of the Atlantic. While not as scenic as back roads, the highway allows you to maintain a good speed (speed limit ~120 km/h). Take breaks at the service areas every 150 km or so – they are quite decent, with fuel, restrooms, and cafés.

Passing Casablanca outskirts, you might spot the Hassan II Mosque minaret in the distance. Around Rabat (Morocco’s capital), traffic can pick up – remain alert for lane-splitting motorbikes and grand taxis. Past Rabat, continue on the A1 north. This section parallels the Atlantic coast but a bit inland. By now, fatigue might set in – switch riders if two-up, or make sure to stretch at each stop. The last leg to Tangier goes through the lush Gharb plains and then hills approaching Tangier. Arrive in Tangier by late afternoon or early evening. You might feel a cool breeze again from the strait – fitting as you near the end of the Morocco loop.

Tangier is a big port city with European influence – easier to navigate than Marrakech. Head to your hotel (perhaps near the ferry port for convenience). In the evening, celebrate your Morocco journey with a stroll along the Corniche waterfront or visit the buzzing Grand Socco square. Tangier has a storied international history – you can almost feel the literary ghosts of Paul Bowles and others in its cafes. You have a ferry tomorrow, so enjoy a good meal (treat yourself to fresh seafood or a mix of Spanish tapas and Moroccan fare, reflecting Tangier’s crossroads nature) and get some rest.

• Highlights: The ease of cruising on a modern highway – after so many challenging roads, there’s a Zen pleasure in a straightforward ride. Seeing the landscape shift from the red earth of Marrakech to the green fields of northern Morocco, noting how the architecture changes (villages in the north have tiled roofs due to more rain). Tangier’s cosmopolitan vibe – it’s known as the gateway between Europe and Africa, with a unique blend of cultures (Tanger: The Crossroads of Cultures – Where Europe Meets Africa) (Discover Tangier: The Gateway to Africa | by A Allazim - Medium). Reaching Tangier marks the completion of an epic circuit of Morocco!

• Riding conditions: Fast multi-lane toll road. Tolls for a motorcycle from Marrakech to Tangier will total around 200-250 MAD (have some cash handy). Watch for occasional strong winds when the road nears the coast around Kenitra – gusts can surprise at high speed. Also, keep an eye out for stray dogs or even pedestrians near service areas or exits. Moroccan drivers on highways are generally OK, but speeders and abrupt lane changers exist – ride defensively. This is a long day, so consider splitting it with a quick sightseeing: e.g., a half-hour detour to see Hassan Tower in Rabat (right off the highway) if you want a cultural break.

• Suggested stops: Service Area near Settat – a morning coffee with a view of eucalyptus trees. Rabat – if time, exit to visit the Mohammed V Mausoleum and Hassan Tower (easy parking, noteworthy historical site). Lunch at a rest stop around Kenitra. Fuel up fully before the last stretch to Tangier (though there are stations all along).

• Stay: Tangier – Opt for a hotel in the city center or near the port. Many have guarded parking. In the evening, visit the Café Hafa, a famous cliffside tea café overlooking the strait (a favorite since the 1920s). Reflect on your journey across two continents as you look at the twinkling lights of Spain across the water. You did it – tomorrow Europe awaits again.

GPX/Map: Marrakech to Tangier via A7 -> A3 -> A1 (all autoroute). In Tangier, navigate to your hotel or the port area (for an early next-day ferry, staying near the port is wise). Tangier has two ports – you’ll likely use Tangier Ville port for the Tarifa ferry, which is right in town. Ensure you have your passport and bike import papers handy for the next day’s exit.